The last day – Key West!

Wheel full 70px I will always remember November 10, 2016.  It was the day I completed riding a bicycle from Halifax, Nova Scotia to Key West, Florida, but that’s not why.  It was the day Leonard Cohen died.

img_3618

“I came so far for beauty
I left so much behind”

Wheel full 70px My wife Heather told me when we talked by phone that evening.  I had ridden back from Mallory Square to the hotel where I would spend the first night in 84 days that I didn’t have to leave from in the morning and ride a bicycle 40 miles/65 kilometers or so.  I’ve felt pretty sad and subdued every since, but that is now changing into a sense of wonder and appreciation for the amazing body of music he left us.  I won’t dwell on this further, except to say how lucky I am to have lived during his time among us.

image-56

Wheel full 70px I have now travelled by bike, more or less, the length of the line between the start and end point on this map.  The distance, which I will look at more closely once I am back to a desktop computer, is a little over 3,600 miles/5,800 kilometers, but that includes a number of ferry rides and the van ride across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel.  I plan to publish detailed information about the ride, to include what I believe to be the exact final mileage, in a couple of future blog posts.  It’s just too hard to do from an iPhone, even a 6 Plus, which is what I’ve carried with me.

img_3549

Wheel full 70px I rode through two Canadian provinces and 14 states along as much of their coastline as I felt I could reasonable do without having to backtrack  from places where there was no outlet except for the way I rode in.  I compromised in just a few places, mainly to avoid unpaved stretches or roads that looked “iffy” for some reason once I reached them.  I can pretty much say with confidence, though, that more than 98% of the time I was riding on the through road in each province and state that was the closest to the shore.

Wheel full 70px Here’s the ride across Florida- 600 miles/960 kilometers, which I did in 12 days.

img_3551

Wheel full 70px Here’s a close-up of the Florida Keys, which from Card Sound bridge to Key West was a 125 mile/200 kilometer stretch.  This took two and a half days to complete.

img_3548

Wheel full 70px When I reached Key West my sister Sue and her daughter Sarah were there to meet me.

img_3492

Wheel full 70px What a lift seeing them provided!  They had driven down from Sue’s home north of Tampa/St. Petersburg and will take me back up that way so that I can fly home to Alaska from Tampa next week.  When I passed them at the Key West sign, though, I still had a few more miles to go.

image

Wheel full 70px I rode on through Key West past the “Southernmost Point” monument (it really isn’t, but I’ll post about that later),

img_3585

past the end of US Highway 1, which I first saw back in Maine shortly after crossing the border from Canada,

img_3583

and finally to the seawall at Mallory Square.

img_3581

Wheel full 70px My ride was finally over.

img_3619 

Wheel full 70px The Surly is now reduced to parts and stuffed in the trunk of Sarah’s car.  I am headed north for the first time in three months.

Wheel full 70px I can do did this.

image-57

Two days, 100 miles to go

img_3409

Wheel full 70px I’ve been on the Keys for about 15 miles/25 km now.  I have almost exactly 100 miles/160 km to go to reach Key West, and I’ll ride something more than half that in order to make it to Bahia Honda State Park, where I have a campsite reserved for the night.

img_3404

Wheel full 70px I started at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, and the view from my picnic table-top bed this morning was very nice.

img_3423

Wheel full 70px Strava, after a couple of weeks of behaving, was generating garbage yesterday, so no Relive track.  I’ll try again today, but it’s hard to look past the fact that RidewithGPS has generated 82 straight days of reliable ride tracking.  Just sayin’.

Wheel full 70px Tonight’s my last night on the road. I can do this!

img_3422

Five days, 250 miles to go

img_3099

Wheel full 70px When I was a kid growing up in the Chicago suburbs in the late 1950s and 60s, I could think of no place on earth that held the same allure for me as the southern Florida coast.  Place names like Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale and Miami Beach were inflated in my mind to the status of tropical oases, with limpid blue water coming ashore onto endless beaches of dazzling white sand.  If you were really cool you got to live on a boat, like the guys on Surfside 6.  Plus, we Chicagoans had a direct connection to the area.

img_3151

Wheel full 70px Yeah, turn right on to good old Lake Shore Drive  out there at the end of the US 34-US 66 duplex just past Buckingham Fountain and drive.  The spitting snow and sullen gray shores of Lake Michigan would then, as if by magic and a couple of tanks of gas, be transformed to the balmy breezes and endless sunny horizons of the Atlantic Ocean.  And 41 would have transported you all the way in between.

img_3155

Wheel full 70px The reality, as I’ve come to learn, is quite a bit different.  Carl Hiaasen’s take on south Florida these days certainly appears to be the more accurate one, at least based on what I’ve seen during my ride so far.

Wheel full 70px But rather than say I was misinformed, better to hold on to the notion that, if I had only been here a little over 50 years ago, it would have been the way that I then believed it to be.  And so that’s what I’ll do.  See you in the Boom-Boom Room.

img_3123

Wheel full 70px Today I’ll ride most of the way through Fort Lauderdale, and tomorrow Miami Beach and Miami.

img_3148

Wheel full 70px The threat of drizzle remains in the forecast, but all I felt yesterday was a couple of drops that could have been stray ocean spray, for all I knew.

img_3111

Wheel full 70px The new wheel is performing, well… like a bike wheel is supposed to perform.  The bike shop only had black to work with, which allows me to now easily tell which end of the bike is which.

img_3109

Oh well, this ride has never been about appearances in any event.

Cape Hatteras

Wheel full 70px I just couldn’t help it.

img_1580

Wheel full 70px I saw the lighthouse and I just had to stop for the night.  I have the NPS campground here almost all to myself, and I can sit at my picnic table in the dark, watch the light wink as it turns around and around, and recall past visits to this amazing place dating back 35 years.  Is this the last time I will ever be here?  So many important memories to call to mind, so many days that were about as perfect as days can get.

Wheel full 70px I’ll get up in the morning, pack the bike, say goodbye to the lighthouse as I ride by (just in case), stop to eat breakfast (biscuits with sausage gravy) at the Diamond Shoals restaurant, and head for the ferry landing at Hatteras and the village of Ocracoke.

The Outer Banks, Day One

Wheel full 70px This morning’s ride put me back across the Currituck Sound at Powell’s Point, which is well-nigh unrecognizeable to me as the building of the second US 158 bridge span changed everything since I was last across here.

img_1523

Wheel full 70px There used to be a marina and gas station here that I recall stopping at several times on frequent trips to the area when I lived in Southside Virginia in the 1980s.  Other than that, though, things along 158 seemed familiar and still retained an almost indescribable laid-back kind of atmosphere.  I really enjoyed this part of the ride.

Wheel full 70px Once across the sound, I was back on the Outer Banks- OBX to more than a few.

image

Wheel full 70px It seems like in years past I always found myself hurrying through the string of towns before you enter the National Seashore area, which begins south of Nags Head and extends, except for a couple of villages, for about 75 miles/120 km of a narrow strip of dunes traversed by NC 12’s two lanes of blacktop.

img_1527

Wheel full 70px As a result I had never stopped at the Weight Brothers National Memorial despite passing right by it driving through the village of Kill Devil Hills many, many times.

img_1518

Wheel full 70px Today I finally did that, and enjoyed circling on my bicycle the tall monument erected on a great sand dune to honor the nation’s pioneering aviators.

img_1517

Wheel full 70px Then it was

img_1516

and on into the National Seashore.

img_1515

Wheel full 70px I reached Oregon Inlet NPS Campground a half an hour south of Nags Head, and I’ll sleep there tonight with the surf pounding the sandy shore just a short distance away.

img_1520

On My Ride I’m Goin’ to Carolina

Wheel full 70px After I crossed the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel today I was riding in Virginia Beach, where I drilled at Fort Story for several years in the 80s as a member of the Army Reserve.

image

Wheel full 70px Heading south from there, I crossed into the 11th out of the 14 states I will be in on my trip.

image

Wheel full 70px Tomorrow I will head back over the Currituck Sound, which I crossed today with one other vehicle from Knotts Island on the ferry.

img_1349

Wheel full 70px I’ll be on the Outer Banks on my way to Ocracoke, which is one of my favorite places in the whole world.  I hope to have a rest day there.

img_1348

P-town

image

Wheel full 70px Oh, and while I’m at it…

image

Instead of a long ferry ride in the rain here last night it was an even longer bus ride in the rain.  But here I am, arriving around nine last night.

image

Wheel full 70px For reasons I will explain in a bit I will have the day to sightsee here.  It’s cloudy and still windy, but dry.  Catch you later today.

Closing in on 40%

Wheel full 70px It seems like it was just a few days ago that I was leaving Halifax, Nova Scotia and already here’s

image

Wheel full 70px I rode through the heart of the downtown, which was very exciting and at the same time sad, because it was in Boston five years ago that my daughter Stephanie, her husband Gary and we in the rest of the family had to come to grips, after several months of unsuccessful proton radiation treatments, that their son Aidan’s very aggressive brain cancer was not treatable.

image

Wheel full 70px Aidan passed away a day before his second birthday late in 2011.  He was very much on my mind today.

Wheel full 70px My route out of Boston was planned to be the ferry to Provincetown on the tip of Cape Cod.  Brisk winds caused the Atlantic to be too choppy for the ferry to run, so I wound up on a bus for almost three hours instead, going the long way around.  The wait to depart was cheered by the opportunity to meet two longtime friends made over the Internet.  I was treated to several beers (truth be told, about half the beer I have drunk during my entire life) and great conversation for most of an hour.

image

Wheel full 70px It was really nice to put real faces with names, but I was surprised at the degree of connection that online interaction over the course of the past decade had created.  I can only hope that I can be as gracious a host in Alaska when folks drop out of nowhere and visit me there.

Wheel full 70px So, with about 1,300 miles down and 2,100 left to go, my trip is getting close to 40% complete. I’ll go into greater detail in a coming post, but for now I’ll just point out as well that three-quarters of the trip’s projected elevation gain is behind me. This is a big deal, as I will need to pick up the pace in order to keep my promise to my wife to be in Key West by November 10th. My average riding speed has definitely increased several miles an hour over the past few days as the terrain has flattened.

image